Practical Information for visiting Andean Northwest

Coverage for mobile networks is reasonable in Salta, Jujuy and the Quebrada villages, with 4G in the towns, and drops away sharply on the puna and in the Calchaqui valleys.

There is no signal at all across large parts of the altiplano and on the mountain roads west of Salinas Grandes.

Local SIMs are cheap; buying one requires a passport.

Wi-Fi is available in hotels and hostels and is often slow, particularly in the villages.

Download offline maps before driving the Quebrada, the Cuesta del Obispo or anything on the puna — several of these roads have no signal, no fuel and very little traffic.

The northwest is among the safest parts of Argentina and crime affecting visitors is uncommon. The dangers are altitude and the roads.

• Altitude is the real risk. Passes on the puna routes exceed 4,000 metres and Salinas Grandes sits at 3,450; ascending from Salta at 1,200 metres in a single morning causes genuine sickness in a significant number of people. See health.
• Mountain roads: the Cuesta del Obispo and the Hornocal road are unpaved with drops and no barriers. Drive slowly, and not at night.
• Flash floods in the wet season, which close roads and have swept away vehicles in dry riverbeds.
• Sun at altitude is extreme.
• Petty theft in Salta’s centre and at bus terminals.
• Remote puna: no signal, no fuel, very little traffic. Treat it as wilderness travel.

Salta and Jujuy have adequate hospitals; the Quebrada villages have small clinics and the puna has almost nothing. Insurance covering evacuation is sensible given the altitude and the distances.

Altitude sickness is the region’s defining health issue. Salinas Grandes and the puna passes are above 3,400 metres and reached quickly by road from much lower ground. Symptoms — headache, nausea, breathlessness, poor sleep — are common; the answers are to ascend slowly, spend a night at intermediate altitude such as Tilcara or Purmamarca, drink water, eat lightly and avoid alcohol. Coca leaf, chewed or as tea, is the local remedy, is legal here, and genuinely helps. Descend if symptoms worsen.

Vaccinations: routine cover plus hepatitis A and typhoid. Yellow fever is advised for the yungas and the far north-east.

Sun: extreme UV; high-factor sunscreen, hat and sunglasses are essential.

Water: bottled or treated outside the cities.

Dehydration happens fast in dry air at altitude.

Pachamama: if you are offered a drink, the first splash goes on the ground before you drink. It is a small thing and it is noticed.

Apachetas, the stone cairns at passes, are offerings. Add a stone if you like; do not knock them over or climb on them.

Photography: ask before photographing people, particularly older women in traditional dress and anyone at a ceremony. A purchase from a stall usually makes a portrait welcome.

Coca is legal in these provinces and traditional. Do not attempt to carry it out of Argentina.

Churches in the Quebrada are small, old and in use; dress modestly and be quiet.

Carnival involves being covered in flour and foam. Wear clothes you do not mind losing, and join in rather than standing back.

Meal times are Argentine — dinner from nine.

Emergency numbers: 911 in most of the region, or 107 for ambulance, 101 for police, 100 for fire.

Altitude: the effective treatment is descent. Hotels in Purmamarca and Tilcara are used to guests arriving unwell from Salinas Grandes and generally have oxygen; ask rather than pressing on.

Medical. Salta has the region’s best hospitals. From the puna, evacuation takes hours over rough roads.

On the remote roads: carry water, fuel and warm clothing, tell someone your route, and do not rely on a phone. Traffic on the western puna roads can be a vehicle an hour or less.

In the wet season, check road status before setting out — the Quebrada and the mountain passes close without warning after storms.

Consulates are in Buenos Aires; Salta has a few honorary ones.