Chiesa di San Paragorio, Noli

Because there are North African bowls cemented into the outside of this apse, and they have been there since the Middle Ages.

The draw is a church used as a record of trade. On the outside of the central apse, between the blind arches and the roofline, are ceramic bacini — glazed bowls set into the masonry as decoration — of Sicilian or North African provenance. Inside are Trecento frescoes, a thirteenth-century wooden cathedra and a crucifix compared to the Volto Santo of Lucca; outside, arcosolium tombs whose arches alternate white and black stone.

The friction is that it was demoted and left outside. San Paragorio was the cathedral of Noli until 1572, when the title went to San Pietro inside the walls. It now stands beyond the circuit, and no opening hour, Mass time or admission is published for it by anyone.

The smart way is to come for the outside first, and time it if you can. The apse, the bacini, the banded tombs and the side pronaos are all exterior. Borghi più belli d'Italia records a traditional ceremony here on 7 August, marking the founding of the free comune in 1192.

This is a church, and it is a national monument. It has been on the Italian list since 28 December 1890, which is a statement about fragility as much as importance.

The bacini are loose ceramic in an old wall. They are set into the apse within reach in places. Do not touch them, and do not climb for a photograph.

There are graves on the left side and under the floor. The arcosolium tombs are tombs, and the excavations beneath found a necropolis with sarcophagi.

If it is open, treat it as in use. There is no custodian, no ticket desk and no guide; an open door is somebody's decision to leave it open.

Walk out from the town rather than driving to the door. It is a short distance beyond the walls and the streets around it are narrow and residential.

Nothing is published about getting in. No opening hours, Mass times or admission for San Paragorio appear on any page read for this entry, and the Comune di Noli publishes no opening hour or admission for any building in the comune. That silence establishes that nothing is ticketed; it does not establish that the door is open.

The address is Via Collegio 2, outside the wall circuit, a short walk from the historic centre.

Much of what matters is outside anyway. The apse with its ceramic bacini, the blind arcading, the arcosolium tombs in banded stone and the pronaos over the side entrance are all exterior and always available.

One date is worth aiming at. Borghi più belli d'Italia records that the establishment of the free comune in 1192 is marked by a traditional ceremony at this church on 7 August — the day of the imperial decree that created the republic.

Administration is the comune's. Comune di Noli, Piazza Milite Ignoto 6, 17026 Noli (SV), switchboard 019 7499520. A tourist office is published at Via Anton da Noli, 019 748384.

7 August is the one fixed date. The traditional ceremony here marks the founding of the free comune of Noli in 1192.

A Sunday morning is the best ordinary chance. No Mass times are published anywhere, so this is a reasonable bet rather than a promise.

Spring and autumn for the walk out. The church stands outside the walls; April to June and September to October are the comfortable months on this coast.

Low sun for the apse. Blind arcading and inset ceramic both read best when the light is raking across them rather than flat overhead.

August if you must, but expect the town to be full. Noli is a Bandiera blu beach resort and that is its busiest month.