Varigotti
Varigotti historical timeline
History
Varigotti is a harbour that lost its harbour, and everything about the place follows from that. For something over a thousand years the bay behind Punta Crena was a working port — Byzantine, then Del Carretto — defended by a castrum on the headland above it. When the basin silted, the village moved round to the west side of the promontory, where it still is, and turned to fishing, olives and quarried stone. What a visitor walks today is the second settlement: a strip of houses at the water's edge, with the first one's ruins on the hill behind and an empty bay beyond them.
Chronology
- 2nd c. A.D. Some date the origins of Varigotti to this century and others to the Byzantine era. The evidence for the earlier reading is physical: fragments and tombs datable from the third to the seventh century were found in the area of the church of San Lorenzo, and a sarcophagus of the third or fourth century from there is now in the archaeological museum at Finalborgo.
- 6th-7th c. After the fall of the Roman empire the port — in today's baia dei Saraceni — gives Byzantine ships a safe landing, keeping the link with the fortifications still active along the Ligurian Apennines and the Maritime Alps. A castrum is placed on Punta Crena to defend it, with the civil buildings by the port and on the eastern flank of the promontory, where a perimeter wall still stands.
- The Lombard king Rotari destroys the settlement, sweeping the Byzantines from the Ligurian coast. Varicottis falls out of use because the Lombards have no fleet. The chronicler pseudo-Fredegar names Varicotti alongside Albenga, Savona, Genoa, Oderzo and Luni — which is the measure of what was lost here.
- On 28 August an agreement between Ottone, bishop of Albenga, and Garin, abbot of Lérins, puts the monastery at San Lorenzo under the island abbey: its abbot and monks are to be chosen only from Lérins men, and anyone taking the habit here must profess at Lérins. The church on the promontory is what survives of that monastery.
- The march of Savona is constituted and enfeoffed to Enrico Del Carretto. Varigotti belongs to it and is repeatedly contested by the rising comune of Noli — a rivalry whose boundary is still on the ground between Punta Crena and Capo Noli.
- The Lérins monks leave, and the church probably becomes Varigotti's parish. From 1200 it is held by a preposito, named repeatedly down to the fifteenth century; in 1213 the provost Bonifacio and his canons exchange land with the marquis Enrico del Carretto.
- 1200s-1300s The population moves from the harbour round to the west of the promontory, where the village stands today, and forms a compagna, a free association of the village men. The hamlets of Pino, Giardino, Chièn, Cà dei Mori, la Seva and la Monda date from this shift, and a new church of San Lorenzo is built because the old one above the port is now too far away.
- After a defeat of Finale by Genoa, the port of Varigotti is filled in by the Genoese — a claim the record itself calls controversial. Whoever closed it, the bay has been a beach and not a harbour ever since.
- After a Turkish invasion a watchtower is built on the summit of Punta Crena. It still stands, with the remains of a convent beside it, and the final scenes of a national television series were shot at it in 2021.
- Genoa, allied with Noli since 1202, builds a turret between Punta Crena and Capo Noli to mark the edge of its possessions. The torretta delle Streghe is still there and still marks the boundary between the two comuni.
- Finale passes under Spanish rule, and is ceded to Genoa in 1713. Varigotti follows the Finale's fortunes through both, as a dependency rather than a party to them.
- The present parish church of San Lorenzo is begun on the shore side, finished in 1637 to the design of the architect Andrea Storace. It keeps the late Gothic bell tower of its predecessor and holds a polyptych of 1584.
- 1790s-1800s Under Napoleonic rule and the Repubblica Ligure, Varigotti is constituted a free autonomous comune. It is the only period in which the village governs itself outright, and it lasts about seventy years.
- Varigotti counts around 700 inhabitants, living chiefly from fishing, from the cultivation of olives and citrus, and from stone quarried locally. The olive grove on the seaward flank of Punta Crena is what survives of that economy.
- While the Genoa-Ventimiglia railway is being built, Varigotti is aggregated — not without resistance — to the borgo of Finale Pia, together with Calvisio, also an autonomous comune until then. In 1927 it becomes part of the newly constituted comune of Finale Ligure.
- A landslide in the Malpasso area kills two engine drivers. After it, rockfall shelters are built at the mouths of the two tunnels; they are visible today, and they are the most direct evidence of how unstable this coast is.
- A new railway line is opened inland, entirely in tunnel, and the coastal route is abandoned. The old station becomes private property and the trackbed that ran through the village is turned into the public car park visitors use now.
What the silted harbour left behind
Losing the port did not empty Varigotti; it moved it. The settlement that stood on the eastern slope of the mountain and the saddle beside it was abandoned as the basin filled, and medieval remains dated to the fifteenth century still sit there, with the Byzantine perimeter wall below them and the castrum ruins above. Everything built after the move is on the other side of the promontory: the new church, the hamlets of Pino, Giardino, Chièn, Cà dei Mori, la Seva and la Monda, and the line of houses along the shore. The old church on the hill lost its parish and was reduced to serving as the cemetery chapel until the seventeenth century; a bomb in the Second World War broke its roof open, and it stayed that way for years. Restoration began in 1995 and was the first in Liguria to lift its materials by helicopter — there being no road to it. The twentieth century's own contribution was subtraction: the Aurelia and mass tourism filled the narrow strip with building, and the railway that had cut through the village left it altogether.
Verified against Wikipedia, October 2026.
