Cagliari Culture

Cagliari is Sardinian first and Italian second, and it is candid about the distinction.

Sant'Efisio

On 1 May the city stages what is probably the largest religious procession in the Mediterranean, and it has done so every year since 1657, in fulfilment of a vow made during a plague. The effigy of Sant'Efisio is carried out of the city and down the coast to Nora, returning four days later. What makes it extraordinary is the escort: thousands of people in the traditional dress of villages from across the whole island, with traccas, decorated ox carts, and mounted groups. It is the one day the entire island comes to its capital.

The language

Sardinian is a Romance language in its own right, not an Italian dialect, and the Cagliari variety is Campidanese. The city is Casteddu in it. You will see it on street signs and hear it spoken, more in the older districts and among older speakers.

What it eats

The best food on the island: fregola with clams, malloreddus with sausage and saffron, bottarga grated over everything, sea urchins in late winter, porceddu from the interior, and seadas with honey. The wines are Vermentino white and Cannonau red.

Seen from outside

D. H. Lawrence arrived by ferry in January 1921 and wrote Sea and Sardinia about the nine days that followed. His description of Cagliari rising white out of the gulf — he compared it to a city in a medieval illumination — is the one outsiders still quote, and the terrace above the Bastione where that view is best is now named after him.

A port city

Cagliari has the outlook of a port: unceremonious, direct, and used to people arriving.