Conegliano Cathedral and Sala dei Battuti

Conegliano's cathedral hides behind a row of shops. It has almost no facade of its own: what faces Via XX Settembre is the frescoed front of the confraternity building in front of it, and you reach the church through an archway in the arcade. Inside is Cima da Conegliano's altarpiece of 1493, still on the altar it was painted for, and upstairs is the Sala dei Battuti, frescoed floor to ceiling.

The Sala dei Battuti is unheated, unventilated fresco in a small room, and its restricted hours and visitor numbers are what have kept it legible. No flash.

The cathedral is an active parish church; services take precedence over visiting.

The church is free and open daily outside service times. The Sala dei Battuti is entered separately and keeps limited hours -- generally weekend afternoons and by arrangement -- which is the single thing most visitors miss here, so it is worth checking before you come rather than after.

Ten minutes' walk uphill from Conegliano station. Modest dress expected.