Basilica di Sant’Anastasia

Sant'Anastasia is the largest church in Verona, a Dominican basilica begun in 1290 and worked on for two centuries. Its facade was never finished, which is the first thing you notice and the least important.

Inside, the scale is the point: tall Gothic naves on huge columns of Verona marble, and a floor of red, white and grey stone laid in patterns.

The reason art historians come is a small fresco high in a chapel by the choir: Pisanello's St George and the Princess, painted around 1436-38 and one of the finest surviving works of International Gothic anywhere.

An active church as well as a monument: keep quiet, stay out of services, and do not photograph people at prayer.

No flash. The Pisanello is a fragile fifteenth-century wall painting that has already lost a great deal; use the coin-operated lighting instead, which is there precisely for this.

Do not touch the gobbi, however tempting. The carving is visibly worn from centuries of hands.

The combined church ticket is what maintains these buildings. Buying it rather than a single entry spreads the money across churches that get far fewer visitors than this one.

Sant'Anastasia charges a small admission and is covered by the Verona Card and the combined church ticket.

It stands close to Ponte Pietra and a few minutes' walk from Piazza delle Erbe, so it is easy to combine with the centre.

Opening hours are seasonal and shorter on Sunday mornings, when Mass takes precedence.

Allow thirty to forty-five minutes. Bring coins for the chapel lighting -- the Pisanello is very hard to read otherwise.

The church is level and step-free at the main entrance and is among the more accessible of Verona's churches.

Shoulders and knees should be covered.