Villa Pisani

Villa Pisani at Stra is the largest and least modest of the villas on the Riviera del Brenta, the canal road that runs from Venice toward Padua. It is routinely called the Versailles of the Brenta, and for once the comparison is not silly.

It was built between 1721 and 1756 for Alvise Pisani, who was elected Doge in 1735 -- and it has 114 rooms, which is the number of his place in the line of Doges. The building is an argument about a family, made in stone.

Its ballroom carries Tiepolo's Apotheosis of the Pisani Family, painted in 1761-62 and among the last things he did in Italy before leaving for Spain. The park behind holds one of the most famous mazes in the country.

The Tiepolo is a ceiling fresco in a historic room, not a gallery painting. No flash, and follow whatever photography rules are posted.

Keep to the paths in the park. The hedges of the maze are clipped living structure and recover slowly from people pushing through them.

Arriving on the Brenta boat or by bus rather than driving keeps cars off a canal road that was never built for them.

Buying the combined house-and-park ticket supports a large state property whose park alone is a substantial maintenance burden.

The villa is a national museum with an admission charge, and separate tickets are usually available for the house and the park -- worth knowing if you only want one.

It is at Stra, about 30 minutes by car or bus from Venice and 15 from Padua, on the Riviera del Brenta road.

It closes on Mondays and has seasonal hours.

Allow two hours for house and park together.

The maze opens seasonally and is sometimes closed when the hedges are being cut -- check on arrival if it is the reason you came.

The ground floor and park are largely accessible; the upper floors are reached by historic stairs.

The classic approach is the Brenta boat excursion from Venice or Padua, which stops at several villas over a day.